#09 the unrelenting
And God…Created Woman
A period of strong economic growth and the improvement of living conditions, The Glorious Thirties (1945-1973) facilitates the emergence of a consumer society.
In 1954, in response to the predominance of male fashion designers such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Givenchy, Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971) revives her fashion house. She invents her famous and archetypal tweed suit, an outfit appropriate for any circumstance consisting of a jacket and a straight skirt that stops at the knee. The silhouette is simple and refined.
Parisian chic now embodies French elegance and sets the tone internationally. First lady Jackie Kennedy wears a tweed suit for both official appearances and in private. Actresses such as Brigitte Bardot and Romy Schneider make their entry into the cinematic pantheon in outfits emblematic of the female emancipation underway: babydoll dresses, low-cut necklines, bikinis, pink gingham and ballerina flats for the one, and T-shirts, white button-downs, backless cuts and a little black dress for the other.
Synthetic textiles are democratized thanks to their modernity and practicality, and nylon appears in lingerie. While the end of women wearing veils and head coverings is a blow to the lacemaking industry, it gradually abandons silk to experiment with new materials. In keeping with the elegance of the time, bouquets and garlands of flowers appear in lace motifs, restoring a classical and romantic taste close to the Alençon style.