#09 the unrelenting

 

And God…Created Woman

 

A period of strong economic growth and the improvement of living conditions, The Glorious Thirties (1945-1973) facilitates the emergence of a consumer society.

In 1954, in response to the predominance of male fashion designers such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Givenchy, Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971) revives her fashion house. She invents her famous and archetypal tweed suit, an outfit appropriate for any circumstance consisting of a jacket and a straight skirt that stops at the knee. The silhouette is simple and refined.

Parisian chic now embodies French elegance and sets the tone internationally. First lady Jackie Kennedy wears a tweed suit for both official appearances and in private. Actresses such as Brigitte Bardot and Romy Schneider make their entry into the cinematic pantheon in outfits emblematic of the female emancipation underway: babydoll dresses, low-cut necklines, bikinis, pink gingham and ballerina flats for the one, and T-shirts, white button-downs, backless cuts and a little black dress for the other.

Synthetic textiles are democratized thanks to their modernity and practicality, and nylon appears in lingerie. While the end of women wearing veils and head coverings is a blow to the lacemaking industry, it gradually abandons silk to experiment with new materials. In keeping with the elegance of the time, bouquets and garlands of flowers appear in lace motifs, restoring a classical and romantic taste close to the Alençon style.

 

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A great spirit of independence movesthrough the halls of this family factory which relentlessly runs its four loomsto meet a growing demand. Resistant to the vagaries of a highly competitivemarket, deaf to the ephemeral effects of fashion, and specialized in ribbons ofsmaller widths, this manufacturer is renowned for its unrivaled expertise.
The richness of its patterns isexpressed in a small cotton band less than 6centimeters wide, a perfect imitation oftraditional handmade Valenciennes lace. Its ribbons comprise delicate floraland geometric patterns in sober black or white that bring a perfect trim andborder to underwear and clothes. Subtle touches of shade and light,they inspire lingerie as well as haute couture and luxury ready-to-wear.

 

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