#07 the intrepid
T’as de beaux yeux tu sais !
By 1930, Europe is going through its darkest years yet and with the 1929 crisis and the entry into to war, many political uncertainties hover over its future and its economy.
Haute couture is idling, fashion is functional and the recovery of raw materials for wartime rationing also applies to the purchase of textile products. To cope with the restrictions, women recycle and adapt their outfits themselves according to the occasion. They borrow the trench, beret and pants from the military wardrobe. On their short dresses, belted and with balloon sleeves, lace is rare; its production in Calais and Caudry is also reduced.
On the other side of the Atlantic, Hollywood, the legendary film city, produces in Technicolor the first international stars with devastating glamor: Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn embody the roles of independent heroines. In their shirts and trousers, often wearing a beret – an iconic piece of the French wardrobe – they detonate by their way of dressing. In France, the young Michèle Morgan (1920-2016) is distinguished by the transparency of her gaze. In Marcel Carné’s Le Quai des Brumes (1938), she is filmed with Jean Gabin, who whispers to her “You have beautiful eyes, you know!” The femme fatale is born!