#06 the tomboyish
The Roaring Twenties
At the end of the First World War, a movement of euphoria and liberation invades France. The 1920s are synonymous with a bustle and excitement from which the term “The Roaring Twenties” is derived. With the advent of the automobile, the plane and the cinema, speed and travel become the values of the modern spirit. Paris is the cosmopolitan center of avant-garde arts.
Fashion makes room for movement and is characterized by clothes adequate for a range of different activities. Among the novelties: the short, fringed dance dress, and the use of mesh knit for sportswear. Couturiers give pride of place to lace and tulle, whose lightness and transparency are useful in the creation of vaporous dresses and to support embroidery, rhinestones and feathers. The purity of the line and the rational logic of Cubism, Futurism and Art Deco style inspire lace-makers, and patterning with geometric figures appears.
With the invention of talking pictures in 1927, it is the era of It Girls. The first sex-symbols emerge, such as Clara Bow and Louise Brooks, for whom the flapper look is standard: short hair, knee-length dress and corset-free. In Paris, the American dancer and singer Josephine Baker (1906-1975) perfectly embodies the energy and feminine freedom of the time. The Charleston that she performs at the Folies Bergeres propels her to the rank of star and makes jazz known by all.